It had been a hectic week and instead of arriving early afternoon at Montagu Guano Caves, we only got there after sunset. "Don't worry, relax," Caren had said when I phoned reception for the nth time that afternoon to let her know we wouldn't make it before 3, then 4, or even 5 pm. "I'll leave the key and a map with directions for you at the farm gate, and if there's anything at all, just call me on my mobile." And so we found a little plastic pocket neatly packed with a map and the key to our cottage. A (double) gin & tonic later I was totally relaxed, enjoying the fire which Enya and James had skillfully lit, while our friend Itsaso had started cooking supper.

 

The one good thing about arriving in the dark is that the next morning you wake up with an exciting sense of anticipation: what does it all look like? Glorious! We had a blissful breakfast on our sunlit terrace overlooking fynbos fields and rocky mountains. Montagu Guano Caves is a beautiful farm in pristine natural setttings with many wonderful facets to reconnect with nature.

 

 

The farm's bat cave has recently been declared a heritage site, one of only three in South Africa. We couldn't go in this time, but definitely look forward to its public opening in September when all required logistics will be in place. Enya and James were (and still are) mesmerized by resort manager Andrew's stories about how early people may have had access to the cave, and his demonstration of how they made their stone tools.

 

 

A while ago, I had told my children that llamas spit when you get too close to them and when we met the resort's resident llama, well, needless to say, they put me to the test. I remain very grateful to Itsaso for volunteering (under a fair amount of pressure, I must admit) to approach the llama. Alas, although its ears went down, it wouldn't spit. As a primatologist, Itsaso is trained to work with monkeys and her instinctive submissive behaviour charmed without the slightest doubt the intrigued llama. It even ate out of her hand in a most friendly manner! So, one of the resort's dedicated staff members gracefully offered to go to the llama and, yes, it spat to the great delight of Enya and James. And me...

 

We spent the day and the next day enjoying the heated pools, the jungle gyms, and the farm animals, but also welcome rests at the cottage with a leisurely stroll every now and then.

 

When I asked Enya and James if they'd want to go back to Montague Guano Caves, they replied that they didn't want to leave it in the first place... So, next time we'll go in summer and enjoy a stay in the bush lapa or in one of the tented houses.

 

 

 

 

 

GPS coordinates S 33 49,438 E 20 10,564

Montagu Guano Caves is situated outside Montagu on the R62 to Barrydale; a little more than 2 hours away from Cape Town.

 

If you enjoy absolute tranquility, book a few days out of season or school holidays. You won't be missing out on the swimming pools in winter, they're heated anyway!