STORY – FASTEN YOUR BELT AT RIEMVASMAAK

...South Africa's first successful land restitution case and a great example of community based tourism in the Northern Cape.

I couldn't find Riemvasmaak on any of my maps. So it had to be remote. Then I found out that it was located right next to Augrabies Falls National Park and that a newly built bridge gave direct access to the place. So, how hard can it be to get there?

GPS in hand we keep driving around in circles. The device's patronising voice constantly repeating 'recalculating route' makes me reach dangerous levels of irritation. There's a definite conflict between hi-tech and my brand new roadmap as to where Riemvasmaak and the bridge are located. We zigzag the country side, through backyards and vineyards, always ending up at the river, but never with a bridge in sight. The other three vehicles in our party follow like sheep, to the amazement of the farmers who stare at us in disbelief. Nobody seems to know what bridge we're talking about. Defeated, we ask a petrol station in Kakamas for directions and choose the old route, leaving the bridge for the way back. Maybe.

Fasten your belt

The gravel road takes us deep into the mountains. I love it. The arid landscape turns rusty red under the late afternoon sun and at the end of what has now become a meandering track I see a hint of the kloof in which the camp site lies. Full of anticipation we bump our way down, wondering if this would be the same track back up. No wonder the locals of yesteryear shouted 'Is die riem vas an die ox!' as they drove their ox wagons down the precipitous slopes. Riemvasmaak (fasten your belt) takes on a totally new meaning.

The sun makes way for the rising moon as we arrive at the camp. The high rock faces that surround us are now deep red. I can feel vibrant energy stored in these mountains steeped in history. Is it the tragedy of a community or the people's love for their land that is embedded in this dramatic scenery?

A unique community

Before the Riemvasmakers were forcefully removed from their ancestral lands in 1973 and 1974, Riemvasmaak was a thriving community where people of different ethnic origins lived together in harmony. Many worked as labourers on farms outside the community and most households had at least one animal. Some had vegetable gardens and grew cotton, others wheat. There were as many as four schools at Riemvasmaak and there was even a clinic. I wonder what made the founders of the Riemvasmaak community decide to settle in such an isolated and arid part of the country, at the turn of the twentieth century?

The Riemvasmaak area covers 74000 ha. It borders the Orange River to the south and Namibia to the west, with the Augrabies Falls National Park on its south-eastern border. Rich in minerals, this area also has a great archaeological heritage and becomes increasingly well visited for its rocks and hot springs.

Regaining the land

After years of opposing to the relocation of the community, the 1500 inhabitants were eventually forced to move to the surrounding areas, or to the Ciskei and to northern Namibia depending on the government's racial classifications. The South African Defence and Air Forces had decided to use the land for military training. Added to this, about 60000 ha were jointly managed by the SADF and SANparks in 1988 to run a black rhino breeding programme.

The changing political climate in the 1990's encouraged a group of Riemvasmakers to play an active role in regaining their land. They applied for land restoration, attended hearings, protested and succeeded. Upon settlement of the claim in 1994 many community members returned to their homeland and in 2002 they received the title deeds of their plots. Furthermore, in 2004, 4500 ha of the adjacent Augrabies Falls NP was de-proclaimed and returned to the Riemvasmaak community. Riemvasmaak is South Africa's first successful land restitution case.

A celebration of 10 years of successful community based tourism

Restitution however is more than getting land back. It also involves resettling people, providing infrastructure and sustainable development. Riemvasmaak had to start everything all over again from scratch. By June 1995, 96 families had returned and more were expected to follow, although there was no housing and conditions were harsh. Yet, on 14 April 2007, this determined community proudly celebrated its 10 years of successful community based tourism.

For Riemvasmakers their connection with the land is very deep. After 20 years of exile, many couldn't wait to return to the place where they were born and felt at home; to build a future in a land they love very much. Norbert Coetzee, the driving force behind Riemvasmaak's tourism project, is one of these people.

"I was nine years old when my family was expelled from its land. We stayed at a German mission near Etosha in Namibia, 1900 km away from home. When 20 years later an official visited us and announced: "Mandela said you can come back," I returned to my homeland. Thanks to the tourism experience I had gained whilst working as a game tracker for Wilderness Safaris in Namibia, I obtained a grant from an Irish ngo for the development of our community. With the R75000 we received, we built the first chalet ourselves. Later on, as the local government saw what we achieved, it felt confident enough to donate R325000 for further development. Today, we have 6 chalets and can accommodate up to 30 people. There are also 14 camp sites spread over the aera."

Hard work and a vision

Each year Norbert attends local and international trade fairs to promote their community project. Tourism and stock farming are the main income-generating activities in Riemvasmaak. "We live from goats and sheep; there are no jobs here," explains Norbert. The region, however, has considerable ecological value. "The main reason why this is one the few really successful community based tourism projects, is because everyone works very hard and all the money goes into the trust," says Norbert. He does the marketing and looks after the visitors, while Clarissa Damara runs the office and Riethus Adams is in charge of maintenance. "The ladies in the village take turns to do the cleaning so that everyone can earn something in the process," adds Norbert.

Today, the community counts 200 houses for 1600 inhabitants and there is one school up to grade 5. "At present, 94 children attend our school and there are 3 teachers who teach on alternate school days. The trust pays for the children and some of the school requirements." Norbert delights in sharing the community's achievements. "We also take the elderly on outings to the hot springs and have eco-visits from schools. And in October we are involved in the Extreme Marathon. It starts in Augrabies and goes right up to the Gemsbok Park. People come from all over the world. Last year the marathon was won by Bob, a blind American. He's amazing!"

Riemvasmaak is not only a great place for hiking, mountain biking or abseiling. Many visitors enjoy the cultural exchanges with its inhabitants. I find it fascinating to learn how this community uses medicinal plants like the Jan de Bak to reduce swelling or the bitter Kamagoe for stomach ailments. "The doctor and dentist only visit us once a month," says Norbert. "For the first born's birth, the mother will go to the clinic in Kakamas. The other babies are born at home. And when a baby is born, the mother drinks urine from Dassies to cleanse the body."

A place to come back to

The hot springs are reputed to be good for skin and rheumatism. You'd think that at 36 degrees Celsius a hot bath would be the last thing on your mind. Not at Riemvasmaak. Set in a kloof surrounded by impressive rock faces the springs have a soothing effect on body and mind. We went bathing at sunset when the rocks were glowing red and stayed until late in the night, in absolute silence under a million stars.

THINGS TO DO

    •    hot springs
    •    4x4 routes on sandy and rocky terrain
    •    hiking
    •    mountain biking
    •    bird watching
    •    donkey cart drives
    •    traditional meals and dances

Stay in a chalet or at one of their wonderful campsites for at least 2 nights so that you can explore Riemvasmaak to the full.

DID YOU KNOW...

...there is another story that explains the origin of Riemvasmaak's name?
Bushmen used to shoot cattle belonging to a farmer. The Nama ambushed 2 Bushmen in a riverbed, captured them and took them at sunset (as dictated by tradition) to the village in an ox wagon. They kept them there fastened with a belt (riem) on the wagon. The next day they were gone. And this is how the community got its name.
(As told by Petrus Loeriesfontein, Norbert's uncle)

... Riemvasmaak is home to the highest abseil in the country at 148 m high?

2 EASY WAYS TO GET THERE

    •    Take the road north of Kakamas to Lutzputs. You will find this road on your left a few kilometers out of Kakamas on the N14 towards Keimoes and Upington.
    •    Cross the bridge at Blouputs, turn right at the T-junction and follow the road into the mountains to Riemvasmaak. To get to Blouputs, leave the N14 at Alheit (10 km from Kakamas) and take the R359 to Augrabies. Drive another approximately 30 km (rough estimate) past Augrabies town until you see the sign post for Blouputs on your right. You can also get onto this road via Bladgrond (between Pofadder and Kakamas on the N14) if you're coming from Springbok.

Phone Clarissa's on 083-8737715
Or phone Green Kalahari Tourism on 054-3372804/85
greenkal@webmail.co.za
www.Riemvasmaak.co.za

Text by Petra Vandecasteele
Photography by Paul Godard

Tell us about your experiences, what was your best family outing this year?

Date: 30 May 2008