Travel
STORY – THE HEART OF THE CEDERBERG, A PLACE OF HIGH ENERGY...
There is something about the Cederberg mountains. As soon as we drive up Piekenierskloof I feel it. I have visited this area many times and each time we follow the N7 meandering from Citrusdal to Clanwilliam, I start sitting upright, like a magnet being pulled towards the mountains on my right. My heart starts beating faster and I bet my pupils are dilating too. It appears that I am not the only one being intensily energised by this special place...
The Cederberg Conservancy
It comes as no surprise when Jannie Nieuwoudt, the chairperson of the Cederberg Conservancy, tells me this is by far the most active conservancy in the country. "We established the conservancy in 1997; it was a free decision of 18 landowners to adhere to conservation principles and was done in partnership with CapeNature. We all grew up here and share a great love for nature. Today, there are 19 landowners managing countless farms in the conservancy, which covers a total area of 170,000 hectares with Fynbos in the west, and Succulent Karoo in the east. To further protect our beautiful mountains we signed up as a contract nature reserve, which means this area gets the highest conservation status internationally. Now, 11 years later, we help other conservancies and realise how much work CapeNature put into ours to get everyone agreeing on everything! Imagine getting 19 landowners around the same table at the same time... " Jannie tells me they were the first to bar the use of 'gin-traps' and hunting on properties to save the leopard. "Some people laughed at us, but we kept our stance and succeeded. All of a sudden the dassies , some hares and klipspringers came back; and all of a sudden leopard came back too, probably because the prey increased."
In search of the Cape Leopard
Up to now, I had only known the Cederberg as a recreational area and didn't realise that there is a group of dedicated people working hard behind the scenes to preserve this beautiful land. Quinton Martins, project manager of the Cape Leopard Trust, is another one of them. I had read about leopards roaming the Cederberg, but didn't really believe it. So when Jannie tells me about this man who sold his car and cameras and everything else he had to conduct research on the leopard, I can't resist the temptation to stop by his house and find out more. It's mid-morning and he's not there. "He's somewhere in the mountains," says the housekeeper. It's late afternoon when I finally meet him. He's just got home from a strenuous hike on rocky terrain. He's exhilarated : "I've just encountered a new leopard. Never seen it before." He shows me how his GPS monitoring system works and how each leopard's moves are illustrated with individually coloured dots. "This is where we are now," he explains as he zooms in on the map. "And this is were the leopards are." I look at the dots and must be mistaken when I judge the distance from the closest dot to where I am at Quinton's house. He's amused. "Sure, it's just out there on that hill close to where you parked your car...
Before starting this project he used to hike a lot in the Cederberg and shares his experiences. "I often noticed tracks of leopard, but nobody had ever seen them. Little was known about them and there was no real literature on them either. I got hooked and started my research." Leopards play a vital role in the functioning of the eco-system, and thanks to Quinton's research and dedication, the farmer-predator conflict is being solved. "Will you take me to the leopards?" I can't help asking. "Definitely not today, but I do plan to take visitors on leopard and caracal tracking trips."
Exploring fascinating geology and rock art
I love scenic drives in this area just before sunset when the light is intense and the ochre rocks turn deep orange. One of the most typical features of the Cederberg are the 500 million years old weathered sandstone formations. The 'Stadsaal' caves near Matjiesrivier are Enya and James' favourite playground where they can choose 'their' cave or play hide-and-seek. To explore other fascinating rock formations such as the Maltese Cross, the Wolfberg Arch and the Wolfberg Cracks requires more effort and a good pair of hiking boots. Some rocks are rich in marine fossils such as trilobites, branchiopods and crinoids. Others are graced with beautiful San paintings.
We are fortunate to meet yet another passionate resident of the Cederberg conservancy, Siyakha Mguni, one of South Africa's foremost experts on the history of the San and curator at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve. Located east of the Pakhuis Pass, the northern entrance to the conservancy, this reserve is home to 132 sites showcasing some of the most beautiful and well-preserved bushman paintings in South Africa. Siyakha takes us to shelters we would never have discovered on our own. Like the one where we descend into a crevasse in the plateau and follow a trail covered with tortuous trees along a waterfall. I can feel very strongly the energy that emanates from these rocks. I imagine how the San hopped over the rocks, agile, light and fast. They certainly knew how to choose their shelters: protected from the elements, secluded and often with breathtaking views over the area. "They also knew where to get good quality ochre pigment for their paintings. Today, the colours are gone, what we see are shadows of the past." He teaches me how to interpret some typical features. "See the prominent calves? These figures are men. Traditionally, the men went hunting and a hunt could last for hours on end, requiring strong calves." As Siyakha highlights differences in the paintings I feel like I'm being transported into a mystical world and find it hugely interesting.
Staying at Bushmanskloof is not only interesting, but also most enjoyable. We are spoilt with a private executive chef who cooks up a storm in our very own kitchen while Elaine, our dedicated hostess makes sure the fire is lit whenever we come back from an outing and the wine chilled in the fridge. Jaco, our private ranger takes Enya and James out on game drives, accompanies them on the lodge's mountain bikes and even puts them to bed so that we can enjoy an uninterrupted dinner by candle light. It comes as no surprise that the children love Koro Lodge as much as we do! As Paul, my husband, says : "I could easily get used to this..."
Finding the endemic Cedar tree
Paul is determined to see the very special Clanwilliam Cedar tree (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis) in its natural habitat, and embarks on a, not for the faint-hearted, nine hour hike near the Maltese Cross. No effort is too big for him - after all, this is a place of vibrant energy, isn't it - and just as he is about to despair at the sight of burnt Cedar trees, he sees a beautiful green specimen on the horizon. It grows in the so-called Cedar zone against cliffs at altitudes of more than 1000 m. The Cedar tree is one of the rare fynbos trees and it is threatened by extinction due to over-harvesting in the past. Cedars are now being cultivated in an effort to save the species and, each year, volunteers are helping to plant about 8,000 young trees at suitable places within the reserve. The Cedar tree is a very slow grower. It's first cones will only appear after 12 years and it produces most of its seeds after 30 years!
The Cederberg on horseback
Our days are filled exploring the conservancy on foot, on a mountain bike, in a 4x4 or simply relaxing. I treasure these kinds of holidays when we spend quality time together as a family. Paul takes great pleasure in photographing rock textures, I enjoy reading a book in the shade of a tree, Enya and James love playing in the rivers. "Late in the afternoon the water is nice and warm in the river, it's the best time to swim," recommends Thomas when we arrive at Mount Ceder, the southern entrance to the conservancy. What really gives me a kick is the thought of riding a powerful horse right up the mountain. Mount Ceder has the most beautiful horses and I can't wait to meet Rachel, Thomas' wife, to organise an outride. A few hours later we're off into the mountains. I'm pleasantly surprised by the comfortable saddle and the vibrant nature of the horses. They're powerful too and as we trot and canter over the soft sand trails towards the cliffs I get on a real high. This is absolutely fabulous and I can't get enough of it. Fuelled by too much adrenaline I forget I'm scared of falling off a horse, I loose track of time and I'm having a ball of a time. Tomorrow I will probably be sore, but who cares, tomorrow is another day...
![Story – Cederberg, A Place Of High Energy - Kids Of Nature - re-connect children with nature - Story/MtCeder_01.jpg [© 2007 gondwanastudio.com]](../xMedia/Picture/Story/MtCeder_01.jpg "Story – Cederberg, A Place Of High Energy - Kids Of Nature - re-connect children with nature - Story/MtCeder_01.jpg [© 2007 gondwanastudio.com]")
![Story – Cederberg, A Place Of High Energy - Kids Of Nature - re-connect children with nature - Story/MtCeder_03.jpg [© 2007 gondwanastudio.com]](../xMedia/Picture/Story/MtCeder_03.jpg "Story – Cederberg, A Place Of High Energy - Kids Of Nature - re-connect children with nature - Story/MtCeder_03.jpg [© 2007 gondwanastudio.com]")
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Biodiversity wine under the stars
Paul bought a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc at the Cederberg Private Cellar, the highest altitude vineyards in South Africa at 1000m above sea level; and this is how he discovered the observatory nearby. The Cederberg offers some of the best stargazing in southern Africa. On Saturday nights, the public is invited to attend an outdoor slide show organised by 'professional amateur' astronomers. It is the first time I watch the night skies from a dome or look through a telescope. Our passionate hosts show us the pointers that lead to the Southern Cross, help us recognise 'the jewel box' and when I see Saturn circled by broad flat rings, I'm awestruck. I never imaged seeing galaxies at 30 million light years away from the Earth with my naked eye. What a great way to spend the night!
The heart of the Cederberg is a truly magical place. Once you've been there, you only think of one thing, and that is going back.
LOCATION
200 km north of Cape Town
Stretches from the Grootrivier in the south to the Pakhuis Pass in the north.
CONTACTS
Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve and Retreat (see family package below)
Tel 021-6852598 for reservations
Tel 027-4828200 for lodge
info@bushmanskloof.co.za
www.bushmanskloof.co.za
Mount Ceder Self-Catering Cottages
Tel 023-3170113
mountceder@lando.co.za
www.mountceder.co.za
Cederberg Private Cellar
Tel 027-4822827
info@cederbergwine.com
www.cederbergwine.com
Cederberg Tourism Info
Tel 022-9213210 for Citrusdal Info Office
Tel 027-4822024 for Clanwilliam Info Office
Cederberg Conservancy
www.cederberg.co.za
Cape Leopard Trust
www.capeleopard.org.za
Tel 027-4829923 or 073-2414513 (Quinton)
contact@capeleopard.org.za
Cederberg Observatory
Dany Duprez (one of the astronomers)
Tel 082-4118737
3-night/ 4-day Bushmans Kloof Family Affair Package
Caters for families with children between the ages of 6 and 12 years (older siblings welcome and babysitting services available for younger children at a nominal fee).
This special event will take place over the following dates:
Monday 30 June to Friday 3 July 2009
Friday 3 to Monday 6 July 2009
Monday 6 to Thursday 9 July 2009
Sunday 2 to Wednesday 5 August 2009*
Thursday 10 to Sunday 13 December 2009
Sunday 13 to Wednesday 16 December 2009
Prices are fully inclusive of full board, luxury accommodation for 3 nights, all meals, evening nature drives, early morning guided rock art excursions, lodge activities as well as children's activities.
Adults From R5500 (per person sharing)
Children 6 - 12 years From R4100 per child
Children 3 - 5 From R2300 per child
Children under 2 years of age stay free.
*Special rates apply for August Family Affair dates.
Text by Petra Vandecasteele
Photography by Paul Godard & Petra Vandecasteele
Date: 11 May 2009
